A trip to the northern part of the Wielkopolska Region is, above all, a journey through a land of forests – especially coniferous ones – lakes, rivers ideal for kayaking, and extensive meadows and valleys along the Noteć. It is also a journey into a historical borderland between the Wielkopolska and Pomerania regions, where traditions, languages, and cultures have long intertwined. Because of its location on the border, the area around Złotów is known as Krajna, which in Polish means ‘on the very edge’.
Złotów
Złotów, the heart of Krajna, lies along the Głomia River and several lakes. Life in this charming town revolves around its waterways, with a picturesque promenade, inviting restaurants, and the municipal amphitheatre, which hosts concerts. Not far away is the Krajna Farmstead, where the region’s traditions and history come to life.
A distinctive feature of the region is its black-and-white half-timbered architecture. The main museum building, located on a street connecting Złotów’s two market squares, is constructed in this style. Visitors can explore the traditions of the Krajniaks – particularly the iconic blue Krajna embroidery – and take part in workshops where they can create unique items inspired by these patterns.
Kayaking along the river
The northern reaches of Greater Poland are crisscrossed by winding rivers and dotted with lakes nestled between steep, rolling hills. Beyond the gorgeous scenery, this landscape creates ideal conditions for kayaking.
If you’re planning a family trip with kids or are relatively new to paddling, these rivers are your best bet:
- Rurzyca
- Gwda
- Piława
- The lower stretch of the Dobrzyca
With its shallow waters and gentle, lazy current, the Rurzyca is perfect for anyone just starting their kayaking adventure—especially since you can easily breeze through its roughly 15-kilometer section in just a few hours. The same goes for the Dobrzyca, where even complete novices can comfortably tackle the lower course.
For a longer, multi-day expedition, the Gwda is an ideal choice, boasting an impressive 145-kilometer trail. Along the way, you’ll pass historic hydroelectric power plants and WWII fortification ruins, with plenty of chances to spot wild beavers or cranes. The river has great tourist infrastructure, so finding a campsite or a place to stay overnight is a breeze.
Looking for a bit more of a challenge? Here are a few local rivers where paddling turns into a true adventure:
- Łobrzonka
- Płytnica
- Głomia
In the footsteps of the sacred
Among the green hills of Górka Klasztorna near Łobżenica, stands the Basilica of the Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin Mary, traditionally considered Poland’s oldest Marian sanctuary. Pilgrims have visited since 1079, when the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared to a shepherd. Today, the complex is an impressive blend of Baroque art and architecture with elements of local folk religiosity.
Wyrzysk District Railway
Did you know that Wielkopolska boasts four different spots where you can ride a train pulled by a real steam locomotive? Three of them are narrow-gauge railways, with one hidden gem located just a half-hour drive east of Piła.
During the summer season, head to Białośliwie to hop aboard the Wyrzysk County Railway (Wyrzyska Kolej Powiatowa) for an unforgettable retro journey. The route may be short, but it winds charmingly through lush woodlands and along the edge of a forest stream. Back at the station, you can take your time exploring the historic locomotive depot. What makes this railway extra unique is its track gauge—measuring a super-snug 600 mm!
Powered by an operational steam engine and a classic diesel locomotive, the train offers a delightfully nostalgic vibe. During your visit, you can even peek inside the repair sheds where the locomotives and carriages are lovingly restored. Like many historic narrow-gauge lines, this one is kept alive thanks to a dedicated group of passionate railway enthusiasts.
Piła
Surrounded by dense forests along the winding bends of the Gwda River—a right tributary of the Noteć—lies northern Wielkopolska’s largest city. Local history runs deep here: back in the day, residents were heavily involved in processing timber from the surrounding woods, which is most likely where the name Piła (Polish for “saw”) comes from!
While the city boasts a long history, wartime destruction left it with only a handful of historic landmarks. Still, there’s plenty for curious travelers to discover. Start at the historic home of Stanisław Staszic, now a charming museum dedicated to this prominent Enlightenment figure. To dive deeper into the story of Piła and its surroundings, head over to the Regional Museum. And if you drop by St. Anthony’s Church, don’t miss the extraordinary 7.5-meter wooden crucifix suspended over the main altar—it’s one of the largest in all of Europe.
Military history buffs are in for a real treat at the Piła Military Museum, home to one of the biggest and most captivating collections in the entire region. Set inside the historic hangars of a former military airfield, the museum showcases an impressive array of heavy gear: tanks, armored personnel carriers, fighter jets, command vehicles, and radio reconnaissance trucks. You’ll even find rare, one-of-a-kind training vehicles once used to prepare soldiers for the field.
To top it all off, Piła makes the ultimate base camp for outdoor enthusiasts planning a kayaking adventure along the region’s scenic waterways!
Osiek nad Notecią
The open-air Museum of Folk Culture in Osiek nad Notecią offers a journey nearly two centuries into the past, showing how people lived in northern Wielkopolska. The museum features houses, barns, a sawmill, windmills, a blacksmith’s workshop, and other structures, all furnished with authentic equipment and tools.
Chodzież
Tucked into a valley surrounded by scenic hills and nestled right on the shores of three lakes, this is easily one of the most beautifully situated towns in Wielkopolska —so much so that the surrounding area is often dubbed “Chodzież Switzerland.”
If you love the outdoors, you’ll feel right at home here. The waters offer ideal conditions for sailing, kayaking, water skiing, and powerboating. During the summer, you can also hop aboard the Chodzieżanka excursion boat for a relaxing cruise around Lake Miejskie. Rising right beside the lake is Mount Talerz, featuring a ski slope equipped with a lift on its side. In spring and summer, the area comes alive with various cultural events.
Prefer two wheels? The surrounding hills are fantastic to explore by bike, with Mount Gontyniec serving as the ultimate cycling hotspot. Two trails—the red and the yellow—lead straight from Chodzież to its summit. You can try riding your bike all the way up, though it’s definitely a serious workout! For seasoned mountain bikers, the slopes of Gontyniec also feature a thrilling network of singletracks.
Historically, Chodzież is famous for two major crafts: textiles and porcelain. In the 18th century, clothiers settled in town, leaving behind charm-filled weavers’ houses along Kościuszki and Wojska Polskiego streets. By the 19th century, Chodzież had earned a nationwide reputation for its fine porcelain, which quickly became the town’s hallmark. Even today, you’ll find classic Chodzież treasures—richly decorated porcelain sets and tableware—in kitchens all across Poland. You can dive into this ceramic legacy at the Public Library, which showcases a collection of over 200 historic earthenware, stoneware, and porcelain exhibits.
Czarnków
The heart of the town is its lively market square, anchored by modern fountains that light up in vibrant colors after dark. Right on the square, you’ll spot a monument to the medieval chronicler Janko of Czarnków, one of the town’s most famous figures alongside its traditionally brewed local beer. While you’re exploring, be sure to drop by the Late Gothic Church of St. Mary Magdalene, and don’t miss the stunning mural on the building wall at Jan Karski Square, which beautifully depicts Czarnków’s top landmarks—including the parish church, the historic brewery, and the water tower.
Sitting right on the Noteć River along the Great Loop of Wielkopolska, Czarnków is a paradise for water tourists. It features a state-of-the-art marina fully equipped with everything a passing boater or paddler might need.
Just outside town, nestled among the picturesque hills known as “Czarnków Switzerland,” sits Goraj Castle. Originally built as a romantic hunting lodge for the von Hochberg family—the very same dynasty behind the famous Książ Castle and Pszczyna Palace—the castle now houses a forestry school. While the interior serves students, the surrounding parklands and trails are fully open for travelers to wander and enjoy!
