Weekend on the Piast Route

Is a weekend enough to explore the Piast Route? Yes, though those who enjoy a slower pace may want to stay longer. Along the route, you’ll find traces of the beginnings of the Polish state in historic cathedrals, early strongholds, and abbeys full of mystery. Peace and tranquility await at the many lakes and forests of the Zielonka Forest, also renowned for its wooden churches.

Piast Route

The Piast Route is Poland’s oldest tourist trail, connecting sites that showcase the thousand-year history of the Polish state. It spans two provinces and forms two main routes: north to south and east to west. This itinerary follows the eastern route from Poznań to Gniezno and Trzemeszno, stopping at Ostrów Lednicki and the ancient strongholds in Giecz and Grzybowo, as well as the former Cistercian abbey in Ląd nad Wartą.

bitwa średniowiecznych wojów
Grzybowski Turniej Wojów (fot. Karol Budziński)

Pobiedziska

About halfway between Poznań and Gniezno, Pobiedziska offers a miniature introduction to the Piast Route. The Miniature Open-Air Museum of the Piast Route displays carefully crafted models of the most important early buildings of the Polish state. Next to the museum, Pobiedziska Strongold features a reconstructed early medieval stronghold with replicas of siege engines and armaments. Visitors are encouraged to touch, try on armour, duel with foam swords, and take part in traditional games.

mianitury w Pobiedziskach
Dzieci w skansenie (fot. M. Adamczyk)

Poznań

Poznań alone could fill an entire weekend, but its Piast heritage is particularly noteworthy. Ostrów Tumski, a river island in the Warta, is home to the Archcathedral Basilica of St Peter and St Paul, resting place of Poland’s first rulers, Mieszko I and King Bolesław Chrobry. Their sarcophagus lies in the dazzling Golden Chapel.

During their reign, Ostrów Tumski housed a fortified settlement, including the ruler’s stone residence, the palatium. Its foundations were discovered beneath the Gothic Church of the Virgin Mary. Today, the palace outline and chapel are marked by an illuminated glass installation. Nearby, Porta Posnania – the Interactive Centre for the History of Ostrów Tumski – tells the city’s fascinating past through a multimedia exhibition.

Across the Warta, atop Przemysł Hill, stands the Royal Castle, a modern reconstruction of King Przemysł II’s residence. The castle houses the Museum of Applied Arts, and its tower offers excellent views over the Old Market Square. The castle and many other historic sites are linked by the Royal-Imperial Route, marked with plaques bearing the royal crown.

zachód słońca na ostrowie tumskim
Katedra w Poznaniu

Ostrów Lednicki

Known as the ‘Island of Rulers,’ Ostrów Lednicki preserves the remains of a stronghold from the time of Mieszko I and Bolesław Chrobry. Fragments of the palatium, a ducal chapel, and fortification embankments have survived. Wooden bridges that once connected the island to the mainland are also traceable. The island is accessible by ferry during museum opening hours. Archaeological work continues, and findings are presented in the modern museum building nearby.

The Wielkopolska Ethnographic Park in Dziekanowice offers a glimpse into the 19th-century countryside, with a school, inn, church, cottages, farm buildings, and a former manor house – a true journey back in time.

ruiny palatium
Ruiny palatium na Ostrowie Lednickim (fot. T. Lipień)
kobieta w tradycyjnym stroju trzymająca wianki
Noc Kupały na Lednicy (fot. R. Woźniak)

Gniezno

From Lednica, it’s just a short jump to Gniezno—the beating heart of the Piast Trail. The star of the show here is Lech Hill, crowned by the famous cathedral where Poland’s very first kings were crowned. A great place to start your visit is the Archdiocesan Museum, home to some of the nation’s oldest and most precious historical treasures.

Inside the cathedral, where the high altar typically sits, you’ll immediately spot the massive silver reliquary of St. Adalbert, inspired by St. Peter’s tomb in Rome. But the absolute crown jewel of the cathedral is the Gniezno Doors—a world-class masterpiece of Romanesque art. Across 18 detailed panels on two bronze doors, they tell the dramatic life story of St. Adalbert. Take a close look at the intricate decorative border surrounding the scenes: among the winding vines, animals, and mythical beasts, you’ll spot a little monkey munching on grapes and even Hercules holding his club! For a sweeping view over the entire city, head up to the cathedral tower’s observation deck.

For a broader look at the era of the first Piast rulers, head over to the Museum of the Origins of the Polish State. It combines authentic medieval artifacts with replicas of key Piast Trail landmarks and stands out as the most interactive museum in town. Be sure to check their event schedule before you go!

Figura Bolesława Śmiałego w Gnieźnie
Figura Bolesława Śmiałego w Gnieźnie (fot. Sebastian Ucinski)
panorama Gniezna
Gniezno, Wzgórze Lecha i Katedra (fot. S. Ucinski)

The absolute best way to explore Gniezno is by following the Royal Route—a walking trail through town where your tour guides are… rabbits! Along the way, you’ll bump into bronze bunny statues dressed as a Piast warrior, a monastic scribe, a vintage chauffeur, and even a rabbit sipping wine. The route also features statues of all the kings crowned in Gniezno and figures from local folklore. Grab a free map at the Tourist Information Center (located on Chrobry Street, right next to the statue of the king on his throne) or download the free “Królika Goń!” (Catch the Rabbit!) app to help you navigate.

Near the main market square, you’ll find the impressive Franciscan Church. Interestingly, this used to be two churches in one. One side belonged to the friars, while the other served as an oratory for the Poor Clare nuns, brought to Gniezno by Princess Yolanda, wife of Bolesław the Pious. Through small wall openings, the nuns could hear Mass without distracting the brothers.

It might surprise you today, but back in the day, the cathedral wasn’t the most important church for locals—it was the Parish Church of the Holy Trinity (Fara). Built around 1430 in the Gothic style, it features a unique boat-shaped pulpit. Try to time your visit for noon: that’s when the tower chimes play and a moving figure of St. Adalbert makes an appearance.

Is Gniezno only about the cathedral and medieval kings? Not at all! The town center is largely 19th-century architecture. Take a peek at the low-rise houses along Tumska Street—they’re the oldest, built right after a massive city fire. You can trace the outline of the old medieval town thanks to red brick lines set into the market square pavement and various scale models nearby. Don’t miss the striking Post Office building, featuring an intricate openwork tower where all of Gniezno’s early telephone lines once converged, or the former Masonic Lodge next door. For tech lovers, Gniezno offers a museum of technology and a retro gaming museum.

However, the ultimate monument to modern industrial heritage is the Gniezno Roundhouse (Parowozownia Gniezno)—quite possibly the largest surviving steam depot in Poland. Guided tours are available, and locals will tell you it’s just as iconic to Gniezno as the cathedral itself. At one point, it’s said that nearly one in three residents worked for the railway!

Trzemeszno

For seven centuries, Trzemeszno belonged to the Order of Canons Regular, who were brought here in the mid-12th century by Prince Bolesław III Wrymouth. The most important landmark is the Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and St Michael the Archangel, regarded as a gem of Wielkopolska Baroque architecture. According to legend, the body of St Adalbert rested here for a time. While the basilica literally overflows with Baroque splendour, the observant visitor can also spot Romanesque columns and an interior portal that take us back several centuries.

para zwiedza bazylikę
Bazylika w Trzemesznie (fot. Kamil Grzebyta)

Giecz

In the slightly more distant Giecz, additional relics from the time of the first Piasts have been preserved. The most impressive of these is the Romanesque Church of St Nicholas, built in the 12th century from granite blocks and surrounded by a stone wall. Within the stronghold, the remains of the palatium can be found; for unexplained reasons, it was never completed.

In the outer settlement, reconstructed cottages host an exhibition illustrating the daily lives of former inhabitants. Workshops for both adults and children are frequently held here. The site is particularly worth visiting in November, when spectacular re-enactments of Dziady (Forefathers’ Eve), the Slavic feast commemorating the dead, take place.

średniowieczne grodzisko z wysokimi wałami
Gród w Gieczu (fot. T. Siuda)

Grzybowo

The Grzybowo stronghold near Września is equally impressive, yet decidedly more enigmatic. It was undoubtedly one of the largest centres during the time of the first Piasts, yet its exact role – and the reason it was suddenly abandoned – remains unexplained.

The site houses a branch of the Museum at Lednica; the entrance to the stronghold is formed by the museum building, modelled on an early medieval fortified gate. Most visitors come in mid-August for the Grzybowo Warriors’ Tournament. During this event, numerous re-enactment groups set up camps, prepare food, and reconstruct the battle for the stronghold, followed by an evening concert.

Ląd nad Wartą

At this point, we veer somewhat off the main Piast Route, yet we remain in places that formed the cradle of the Polish state. Its development was shaped not only by powerful strongholds and military campaigns, but also by the knowledge brought by monks.

One such place is Ląd on the Warta, whose recorded history dates back to 1145. Within the Gothic monastic interiors, including the chapter house, visitors are struck by a vault supported by a single pillar and by St James’ Oratory. Its walls are adorned with polychrome paintings from 1370, considered among of the most valuable examples of Gothic art in Poland. The current Baroque form of the monastic church, with its immense dome, was achieved during reconstructions carried out in the 17th and 18th centuries.

klasztor cysterski otoczony mgłami
Ląd nad Wartą (fot. Janusz Nowak)

Pyzdry

We conclude our weekend journey along the Piast Route in Pyzdry. Today, it is a somewhat sleepy small town on the banks of the Warta, but in the past it was one of the most important centres in Wielkopolska.

In 2024, the town was recognised as one of Poland’s tourist wonders in a poll by National Geographic Traveler. The recognition was sparked by the creation of a huge mural on the wall of the sports hall, depicting the most important events in the town’s 800-year history. The mural features King Casimir the Great, who, according to legend, avoided captivity by the Teutonic Knights thanks to secret underground tunnels. One scene depicts the first documented use of artillery in Polish lands, with a soaring parish priest – the first victim of the shot – heading skywards. The mural also includes scenes of women accused of sorcery and burned at the stake.

After this brief history lesson, visitors can take a stroll along the Warta promenade to see what are considered the most beautiful mosaic steps in the Wielkopolska Region, as well as the former Franciscan monastery buildings, now home to the Regional Museum of the Pyzdry Land. Continuing on, visitors arrive at a beautifully restored Dutch windmill featuring an exhibition on milling traditions

Pyzdry o wschodzie słońca
Pyzdry o wschodzie słońca
Zielony drewniany dom w Pyzdrach, przed nim para młodych ludzi
Pyzdry (fot. M. Jankowski)

Wągrowiec

The story of Wągrowiec is deeply rooted in Cistercian history. The monks first set up camp in nearby Łekno before shifting their headquarters to Wągrowiec itself. In fact, it’s this rich, centuries-old monastic legacy that earned Wągrowiec its well-deserved spot on the Piast Trail.

As you wander through town, you’ll spot several traces of its monastic past. The twin-towered Monastery Church dominates the skyline right away—though sadly, not much of its original lavish interior survived the test of time. For a truly rich interior, head to the Parish Church of St. James the Apostle. Keep an eye out for its stunning Renaissance altars, intricate starry vaults, and vibrant 16th-century wall paintings in one of the side chapels.

Kościół farny św. Jakuba w Wągrowcu
Kościół farny św. Jakuba w Wągrowcu (fot. Karol Budziński)

Just outside the church stands a monument to one of Wągrowiec’s most famous sons: Father Jakub Wujek. He gained lasting fame by translating the Bible into Polish—a masterpiece translation that served as the gold standard for a whopping 365 years until the Millennium Bible came along.

The Cistercians are also tied to one of Wągrowiec’s coolest and most curious sights: the crossing of the Wełna and Nielba rivers. Created during 19th-century river engineering and hydrotechnical works, this rare hydrological phenomenon sees two rivers cross paths at near-right angles and keep flowing in their own directions with surprisingly little mixing!

Chillout in the woods

Looking for a quick breather? Head to Puszcza Zielonka, a vast forest located just a stone’s throw from the main Piast Trail and a long-time favorite weekend getaway for locals from Poznań. It’s the ultimate playground whether you love hiking, kayaking, lounging on lake beaches, or—above all—exploring on two wheels.

Exploring the entire forest could easily fill a few days, but here are a few standout spots you definitely shouldn’t miss:

  • Dziewicza Góra Observation Tower: Offers sweeping, breathtaking views over the forest canopy, surrounding villages, and the Poznań skyline in the distance.
  • Former Cistercian Convent in Owińska: Home to a stunning Baroque church, a local school, and Poland’s only typhlological museum—a unique collection dedicated to the history, culture, and education of the visually impaired.
  • Zielonka Forest Arboretum: A lush botanical oasis that doubles as a perfect trailhead for further adventures.
  • Dąbrówka Kościelna Sanctuary: A historic and tranquil pilgrimage site nestled in the woods.
  • Beaches and Swimming Spots: Cool off at the popular lakeside spots in Tuczno, Kamińsko, and Owińska.

Thanks to the abundance of timber from the surrounding woods, this region became famous for its wooden architecture. Amazingly, 12 historic wooden churches have survived to this day, all linked together by the Wooden Churches Trail Around Puszcza Zielonka.

Key stops along the route include:

  • Kicin: Church of St. Joseph the Betrothed of the Blessed Virgin Mary
  • Wierzenica: Church of St. Nicholas the Bishop
  • Uzarzewo: Church of St. Michael the Archangel
  • Długa Goślina: Church of St. Mary Magdalene
  • Węglewo: Church of St. Catherine of Alexandria
  • Kiszkowo: Church of St. John the Baptist