The first traces of Jewish presence in Greater Poland are almost as old as the beginnings of the Polish state. Depictions of Jews in characteristic head coverings can be seen even on the famous Gniezno Doors. In 1264, in Kalisz, Duke Bolesław the Pious issued a statute granting Jews autonomy and privileges. The Jewish community in Greater Poland developed over the centuries, although it was never as large as that in eastern Poland. In the 19th century, many Jews assimilated. Because of the Holocaust, only a small number of Jews live in Greater Poland today, and their rich history is remembered mainly through surviving buildings and museum collections.
Poznań
The only (partially) preserved synagogue in Poznań is located at Akiva Eger Square. It was built in an impressive style with numerous oriental elements and topped with a large dome. Its marble-decorated interior could accomodate up to 1300 people. The synagogue was destroyed during the war and rebuilt into a swimming pool, serving that function until 2011. Discussions regarding the future of the building are currently ongoing.
There is also a local legend related to the Poznań’s Jewish community. It’s about the golem, an artificial man made of clay, which is said to have been created in Prague by Rabbi Judah Loew ben Bezalel, who actually came from Poznań. A statue of the golem by Czech sculptor David Černy stands at Marcinkowski Avenue, symbolically linking Prague and Poznań.
None of Poznań’s Jewish cemeteries have survived till this day. In the past, there were several in the city, for example, at the site of today’s Plac Wolności (Freedom Square) and Poznań International Fair. A memorial to the latter was created a few years ago. In addition, on Głogowska Street, in the yard of a tenement, you can find some symbolic graves, including that of the aforementioned renowned rabbi Akiva Eger.
Kalisz
The already mentioned statute of Duke Bolesław the Pious is obviously related to Kalisz, as it was issued in this city (hence the name, the Statute of Kalisz). In the 19th century, Jews constituted approximately 30% of the city’s population. Rabbis from Kalisz headed The Council of Four Lands, the highest institution of Jewish self-government at that time.
The most important remnant of the former Jewish community is the New Jewish Cemetery, established in the 1920s. It’s the only place in the city where original matzevahs and impressive family tombs have survived.
You can see an especially interesting exhibition, related to the Kalisz Jews in the Osiakowskis Museum, which houses the collection of artifacts, including original clothing, old shop signs, as well as religious objects.
Ostrów Wielkopolski
The synagogue in Ostrów Wielkopolski has been given a second life. During the war, the entire former Jewish quarter was destroyed, but the synagogue survived. After a major renovation in 2010, it has become one of the most important monuments in the city. The synagogue was built in an impressive and slightly exotic Moorish style, inspired by the architecture of southern Spain and northern Africa. The facade is adorned with two towers topped with helmet-shaped domes, a decorative frieze below the roof, and semicircular windows and doors. Today, the synagogue serves as a cultural center called “Forum Synagoga”.
Leszno
Fate was also kind to the synagogue in Leszno, which miraculously survived the war. It was, however, completely looted of its furnishings. The synagogue was built in the 18th century in the Baroque style, and it fits perfectly into the entire architectural character of the city. Unfortunately, its imposing tower with the dome hasn’t survived. In 1993, the former synagogue was handed over to the District Museum in Leszno, which transformed the building into an art gallery. One of the exhibitions is dedicated to the Jewish community in Leszno.
Behind the synagogue, there are still the remnants of the former Jewish quarter. The streets such as Tylna, Grodzka and Średnia were home to about 7,000 residents during the Jewish community’s hayday.